Flying home. Having completed his
winter cross-Canada trek from Victoria to Goose Bay, Labrador
via the Trans-Labrador Highway (TLH) and getting as far as Joliette,
QC, on the return to Victoria, Paul has decided to fly home. Repairs
on "Frosty", his BMW F650GS Dakar, have taken longer
than expected and given Paul some time to consider how long the
trip has kept him away from his home. The timing of Frosty's service
was fortuitous in that it coincided with some very nasty weahter
moving through the area and kept Paul in a warm, dry place while
the storms ravaged outside.
Paul's inspiring story is below...in
his own words...
Dec. 15th
Well! As time went by since Frosty
(Paul's trusty BMW F650GS Dakar) and I have come back last year,
she has seen some transformation happening to her already beautiful
and sexy lines. In her case she has gained some weight. She needed
to in order for her to carry the extra weight in gear that she
and I will need this year to not only go across Canada but also
go across Labrador.
No modifications were made to her
engine except a K&N filter. She will be running on 10W40 and
a new chain and sprockets were added as well. She got a sprocket
job done. She went from 47 teeth to 49. This should be more than
enough for her to carry her new appendage.
It is a Sputnik sidecar that I purchased
from Dauntless Motors in Enumclaw Washington. It is all metal,
weights only 200 lbs and has solid covers that can be lifted just
like a trunk or hood and it can be also used as a cargo sidecar
once the seat is removed.
The mounting system that they added
to Frosty is pretty impressive. It replaces the original sub frame
and has all the mounts ready to go. It is a lot sturdier than
the stock BMW.
Once configured properly (Toe in and camber) she rides pretty
good. The maiden ride with the new sidecar was from Enumclaw to
Victoria and this included fighting I-5 at rush hour. It was a
good way to learn how to handle Frosty with Snowball attached
to her. Snowball is the sidecar name. He has already been christened
by friends of mine!
Here
she is before she got painted the same metallic blue than the
Dakar!
I like orange but even if the sidecar
is a necessity I still wanted the whole thing to at least look
good!
Ok! It is not a show piece but Dammit! Blue and orange is not
exactly a color match made in heaven.
Here is the Cave! Where surgery is performed with high quality
tools, warm cup of coffee and the peace and quiet men love to
have when working in their metal covered, gear spinning, wheel
turning, torque setting, spark producing iron smelling, life creating
Oasis! Arrrhhhh! Arrrhhhh HHHRaaa!
Snowball got painted by Curt at
Ferny’s auto body in Victoria http://fernysautobody.com.
He did a hell of a good job,
Okee Dokee! Here is a picture of
my Compadre Harry Harding who will join me on
the trip to at least Manitoba. From there he will see. here he
is on his bike that is all ready to go.
he also has his new North 49 Arctic suit on.
Jan. 2nd
Okee Dokee!
We made it to Grand forks at 6:30.
we did 600 kms today. we got here it is about -10 and we did not
have any incident.
The last hour or so was ridden in the dark and Harry had to slow
down quite a bit in the curves as he could not see the surface.
he is getting a hang of it though!
Lots of snow in Manning park lots
of slush, sand and crap. the bike are absolutely filthy! I can
hear my can of pledge talking to me but I am ignoring it. We got
to Osooyos and the view of the valley was great.
All in all we had a great day! I
had a few goos pucker moment! i guess I will get back into them
as i was last year.
Harry had a few scary moments I am
sure because when we stopped and I asked him how he was, his eyes
were about to pop out of his head as in "Holy Shit Man! What
the hell? This is absolutely nuts!"
But he stuck to it. Quite a trooper.
I guess spending 30 years as an RCMP CSI builds you a big set
of nuts!
We are hunkered down in Grand forks right now and the bed looks
pretty freaking inviting.
We will hit the road around 7:30
AM and head for the Salmo Creston Pass. Could be good, could be
bad! Shit i am laughing gso hard right now I can hardly write.
I just asked harry if he will have a shower and he said "Nope!
I got to wait to give birth to a staff sergeant before I do! (turns
out he means taking a dump!) You know the 3 SSS? Shiot shave and
shampoo? Well he will not mess the order of things! Let's just
leave it as that!
Jan. 3rd
This was a hell of a day! We got
up in Grand Forks at 7:00 and left by 8:00.
The roads in Grand Forks were slicked
with packed snow. The start was slow as harry still is learning
how to steer in the snow and on ice. He is doing damn well though.
I am having fun on the hack but sometimes a bit too much. I am
far from knowing what the hell I am doing but I am giving it my
best to learn. I am sliding sideways in corners and having a ball.
By the time the road is really going up around Christina Lake
it gets messier.
But the views are unbelievable! I remember last year how I was
at awe at the beauty of the scenery in winter. I feel the same
again! This so cool!
So far I am only wearing my Aerostich Darien pants with my polar
tech Long john’s and my Darien Jacket with my polar tech
undershirt, a t shirt. The Aerostich liner and I feel warm and
toasty. I have my Sorel boots on and damn! If I could kiss them
I would. But I don’t eat salt.
Before we know it the tarmac is gone
and the wind picks up!
While we are stopped on a hill an
RCMP cruiser stops by and the fellow could not believe his eyes!
He said that in the 9 years he has been around these parts he
has never seem anything like this! HMMM I wonder why.
By this time Harry is really struggling
but he is hanging on! Hats off to him! The guy has determination.
While we are going up he loses it and fall downs at about 30 km/h.
he is ok though and the only damage his bike has suffered is that
his left Touratech bag will need some plastic surgery (Welding)
and his rack to be straightened out. But as he gets back up he
says “Well! Battle scars!” man! This guy has the spirit!
About 20 minutes later the shit has
really hit the fan. My hack can barely move forward,
Harry is down to 10 km/h and we can
hardly see where we are going! Hazards on, Harry keeps going but
we stop again and he asks me to go ahead of him and wait for him
further down the mountain! He says he is too nervous with me behind.
Especially as he knows I am filming as we go!
After waiting for him for about 40
minutes I turned around and go back. I meet with him about 10
minutes down the road. Slow as molasses, his eyes pocking out
of his skull, his shield open because he breathes to hard and
his Schuberth keeps fogging up!
Talking about fogging up! This B2SV
Bombardier Helmet is a damn fine piece of hardware! This is by
far the best helmet I have ever worn! PERIOD!!!
Anyways, the highest part is behind
us and down we are going! Ahead? Castlegar! Looking at the road
I already know that Harry has to stop. I know he will be bummed
out but this is insane! I make it to the Chevron in Castlegar
at the first exit, hoping he will see me from the highway! I hope
he will remember the lesson I have been trying to teach him. “Ignore
the front brake! From here to Labrador there is no front brake
on the bike ok?”
While I am waiting I jack the bike up, get my drill out and my
studs and put studs on my rear TKC 80. Shit! This tire is melting
away! I guess riding the hack is harder on the rubber.
It takes me about an hour to put them on and Harry safely shows
up as I am finishing. I am happy to see him. The conditions are
worsening and the locals say that there is a heavy snow warning
over the region.
Harry goes straight to the gas pump and fuels up Icicle! Then
he walks his bike to where I am! I can see that he is done for.
A mix of fatigue, broken nerves and stress! But he is still grinning.
I go to him and tell him point blank.
“Harry? This is the end of the road for you! This is ridiculous
and you cannot make it another mile. As we are talking a fellow
stops, and after the usual “Do they know you escaped and
that you are out!” joke, he tells us that there is another
10-20 cm coming in a hurry!
We decide to go to the Tim Horton’s down the road and make
a decision!
People are looking at us like we are aliens who crashed from planet
Crypton! And looking at Harry wobbling his way in the parking
lot on a bike that would be loaded too top heavy in summer I am
kind of agreeing with the locals!
After a soups and coffee we agree!
This is it for him! At least for today! We go to my usual little
motel in Castlegar. The Flamingo motel!
Frank and Deborah know me there!
Let’s just say that they keep my bucket and my cleaning
rages for my bike.
So we sign in and I decide to take a chance and attack the Salmo
Creston Pass!
Holy Crap! Just when I thought that what we went through was bad.
I wanted to try it because they do avalanche control at 10 in
the morning all over the pass and it is not passable till 12.
So Harry and I agree that if I make it across I will phone him
and let him know about the conditions. So he might try to make
it tomorrow! He has decided that Winnipeg will be his final destination.
So now he can jettison his big bag. He will leave it in Castlegar
and picked it up in the spring when he goes through on his way
back home to Southern Manitoba!
I am climbing the Salmo Creston pass
at about 40 to 50 km/h! I am sliding and spinning all over the
place! Good thing I put the studs on!
It is taking forever to climb. One thing is for sure! It is nasty
because I have the road to myself! It takes about 30 minutes before
I can see a rig come down! And as he goes by I am buried in snow!
Can’t see crap! Well! That is another butt puckering moment!
I finally make it up the pass.
All in all it takes me almost 6 hours
to make 200 kilometres! Frosty is so filthy I am not even sure
it is her! But she is holding on! After what seems like an eternity
I start making my way down! For those of you who have never done
the Salmo Creston pass. It is along way down! I pick up speed
quickly and before I know it I am riding like if I am on a snowmobile!
Off the seat sliding sideways! I am having a grand ole time! Funny
how it is! I am so nervous my guts hurt and at the same time I
am having fun. This is exhausting
As I look around I am thinking “Hmm!
This is going to be long way to Labrador……………………and
back! But I tell myself “Paul! Shut up! No time and no point
to think about that! I reach Creston! Damn! Am I ever happy?
I wan to stop for coffee but i am too tensed! I know that if I
stop I will plant my ass on that chair and stay there till spring
or till they arrest me for vagrancy! So I keep going! It is another
90 clicks to Cranbrook and it feels so freaking far!
The road is still covered with snow but at least it stopped snowing.
So I hammer down (Light hammer) at about 60-70 clicks! It is all
I can do! The packed snow at this altitude (Lower) Hs turned into
sheer ice and the front wheel dances a bit too much when I hit
this stuff!
As I get into Cranbrook my reserve light comes on! 236 kms! Not
bad considering that she normally comes on at about 300 in the
dry with no sidecar.
I sign in at the Econo Lodge where I stopped many times.
I am bagged! Remember last year in Sault St-Marie? Well I feel
almost like this..
But you know what? It is good to be alive.
You would think that riding with
a sidecar is easier but it is not! Ok it keeps you from sliding
off the road, but man making sure the rig turns is no picnic!
and some times it does not! So! Out comes the ass. counter steer
full strength and push her in or out! It is like fighting a pig
through a little door!
I had many high pucker factor moments last year on 2 wheels! But
I am having as many now! They are just different! I said before
that a sidecar would be too easy! Well! To those who heard me
say this I honestly and profusely apologize!
There is nothing easy about it! It
is as freaking scary as ever!
Keeping balance is nerve wrecking on 2 wheels! keeping the rig
on the road is also nerve wrecking!
Okee! I am starting to have a headache
here! too tired!
January 4, 2008
Cranbrook BC
Well! Got up this morning at 7:00
and took off in the dark at 7:45. The morning was nippy but the
road was clear and it had stopped snowing. The ride from Cranbrook
to Sparwood was cold and slippery but no snow on the ground.
About half an hour (At my speed)
after Sparwood the road got covered with packed snow and hard
slush. It was a rough ride but kept the speed at about 70 km/h.
I can tell you this! Every time I travel to Alberta I am reminded
that most of the Alberta drivers are a bunch of fast driving,
tailgating, and impatient morons. Well! Kept my lane and let them
steam! The only ones I moved over for were my friends the truckers.
From there to Fernie the road was snow covered mostly and not
much traffic. From Fernie to Coleman it was still snow covered
but by the time I reached the Crowsnest Pass the road were wet!
I stopped at the entrance of the
Pass and took this shot of the frozen lake. It was pretty freaking
windy but the sky was clear! Nothing to complain about!
When I was stopped at this lake,
a snow plough driver that had tooted his horns at me a half hour
before, stopped and we chatted a while! He could not believe his
eyes. He was a motorcyclist himself and thought this was freaking
awesome. He told me to stop at the Cinnamon Bear in Coleman because
they had the best coffee and bun in the universe!
Well! I just could not refuse such a good suggestion and I stopped.
After eating the most incredible bun in about 2.35678 nano seconds
I have to agree with him.
The coffee was incredible. The last time I had drunk coffee this
good was in the mountain of Santo Thomas in Guatemala in 2000.
Man! That stuff was grown right beside the house of the Quetche
people we were staying at.
After a quick but refreshing stop
I kept going. The mountains tops whipped by the wind were absolutely
breathtaking. We do live in the most beautiful country in the
world. I said it before and I will always say it. Any one who
rides a bike owes it to himself or herself to go for a winter
ride like this. The scenery takes on a whole new personality and
the views must be experienced to be believed. The combination
of cold fresh air filling your lungs, the cold snapping at your
fingers while you are taking pictures, the crisp clear air combined
with the realization that you are alone out there today is something
that I just cannot get enough. You know that feeling you get on
a ride when all is right? The road is perfect, the curves invite
you and your machine to perform this sensuous dance that only
leaning left and right repeatedly can create. The scenery is exploding
in front of your eyes and the you gasp for air as picture perfect
shot after picture perfect shot goes by. You tell yourself ‘Man!
If I keep stopping like this I will take all day to do that 200
miles.” And then you say! “What the hell!” and
just take it in.
Well! Take all this and multiply by 100 in winter.
I cleared the foothills and stopped
to take a last picture of the mountains that are always the same
to me. They are my biggest challenge and the most pleasing to
my eyes and soul at the same time.
By the time I reach that part of the country, the snow has mostly
gone and a perfect strong tailwind has come to life. The type
of tailwind that makes your bike goes 100 bazillion MPG and that
also allows you to hear your engine humming happily!
I really believe it does not get
any better than this.
I stopped in Seven Persons Alberta for gas and then mozied on
to Medicine Hat where I stopped at the Husky Truck Stop for the
best bowl of Tomato cannelloni soup.
After pondering whether or not I would cal is an early day here,
I thought of Harry and decided to stay here and let him know.
Turns out he left me a message at 10:30 this morning saying he
was leaving Castlegar to go east.
I phoned him back and told him I would be at the Motel 6 outside
Medicine Hat and that I would take a room with2 queen beds and
that if he wanted to scoot along and make a 500 km day, that I
would be here, waiting for him.
Jan. 5th
Ok!
I am in a new place now in Moosamin SK. A place with Internet!!
I am waiting for Harry and we will
ride together to Winnipeg where it is the end of the journey for
him. It is the least i can do for him! He slept in Swift Current
last night and had a really bad day getting to Creston. But once
past that he was ok. He avergaed 15-20 km/h ......... W-I-L-D!!!!
Jan. 6th
What the h…..? 5:57 AM? Why
am I awake at this time? Was too tired to sleep last night and
now I am awake before the rooster.
I’ll shake my head! Maybe there is a n ice build up in my
brain! Mind you some might wonder if I have one!
Anyway! Up I get! HMMMM! Nice dark
sky! Stars and absolute nothingness! For Pete’s sake Paul!
Go back to bed! ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ Done!
7:30 AM! Holy crap! Felt like 5 minutes! Now I do not want to
get up!
8:00 out I go! Frosty is purring
like a cat. The weather is nice and in front ahead of the front
wheel I go! As the darkness recedes and the sunlight comes the
vastness of the prairies comes out. I am always amazed at how
big this is! I have done it so many times I don’t even want
to count anymore. And yet, every time the beauty and the calm
of these vast prairies soothe me. You ride, ride and ride forever
and it does not seem to want to end. Little towns line the TCH
and each and every one of them has a story. Whether it is a record
breaking drought, which drove the farmers out of business for
the year, or too much moisture and not enough heat.
I ride at a steady 90-95 km/h and the rig handles well! No pull
anymore since I adjusted the camber by about one degree out!
Little towns like Piapot, Webb, Chaplin. I stop at one of my favourite
places. Gull Lake! Where the truckers breakfast was calling me!
But after experiencing this gargantuan mix of artery clogging,
heart stopping, liver killing, kidney overloading but yet so damn
good work of art, I decided to go just for a coffee. If I had
succumbed to it I am sure I would still be burping it by the time
I reach Goose Bay!
So on to SK I go! I am not sure
where I will make it today! Winnipeg is what I have in mind, but
anything past Regina I will be happy with. I left a message to
Harry this morning telling where I am at but I got his answering
service. Knowing him, he is soldiering on! I am hoping we will
meet at the next place I sleep but I will have to wait to see
how it went with him.
The prairies are clear! Cold and icy in spots but clear.
It is hard to complaint. It is green
but it is also not that cold. I guess that will change in a hurry
when I reach Ontario!
I cruised all day! I ended up making it to Moosamin SK after a
bit over 700 kms. Not bad of a day!
By the time the sun goes down in Regina the weather dropped by
the second. It went from around 0 and -1 to -14 by the time I
stopped. But the Aerostich Darien is doing an incredible job.
I still did not need to get my North 49 arctic suit. I am happy
I have my Sorel though. My tootsies are nice and warm and as we
all know! “Keep the extremities warm and the rest is warm”
I sign in at the Moosamin Motel and
hunker in! No internet! It is one of these little grandmas and
grandpa place that I love so much. I have a message on my cell!
It is Harry! He is stopped in Swift Current for the night about
500 kms from where I am at! He is getting closer.
I give him a call and it is good to hear his voice. He is in good
spirit and despite a hellish day he is upbeat!
I tell him I made up my mind and that I will wait for him in Moosamin!
This is the least I can do! I mean Man! He took a chance in coming,
he asked me what to do and what to get and he faitfully got together
with me regularly to learn what to do and what not to do! Even
though we separated as we had agreed if we needed to, I still
want to be with him when he finishes! For a while he was saying
that he would make it to Goose Bay but he changed his mind. I
think it is a good call! His equipment was to heavy and made the
bike too hard to handle. He also had to carry it because it is
his sleeping bag and equipment and would need it if he was to
make it there and not me!
Anyway! He is a hell of a trooper
and I am happy I did this with him.
3:42pm
Harry just got here! Holy Crap! He
just flew! He is safe and sound and had a hell of a hard time!
We will ride tomorrow to Winnipeg together and part!
Here he is arriving at the motel
in Moosimin SK.
Jan. 7th
Ok! I got to Ron last night at 6:40
something PM. Being the host he is he knew I would get there around
that time and even though I did not phone him, the steaks were
waiting.
So they put on a hell of a spread for me. Damn! Am I lucky or
what?
Nice medium slab of cow with baked potato and corn and some nice
red wine! Yep! I hate suffering like this.
It was nice after a 705 kms day.
The ride from Moosomin to Dryden was uneventful. The only part
I did not like was leaving Harry in Brandon Manitoba!
I enjoyed my time with Harry! He is a hell of a guy! I do believe
nothing can bring him down.
After spending about an hour at the Tim and joking a lot with
the locals! I am not sure! There is something about them not seeing
bikes often at this time of the year!!
We got on our bikes and said Goodbye!
From there I rode pretty much straight to Dryden except for fuel!
It was cold but dry and not much traffic.
While I was riding a few people phoned me and invited me to their
place in Winnipeg! Sorry! I will make up for it on my return!
To the guys at the shop and Ena’s sister! Thank you so much!
I spent the evening chatting with
the guys and Ron’s wife Sonya and we had a great time. Meanwhile
outside the snow was starting to fall.
When we got up this morning this is what it looked like this.
I had coffee with Ron! (While I
was sleeping he went to Tim and got us some coffee! What a guy!)
I gathered my crap and then we went for breakfast at the Central
hotel restaurant. Then I took off while Ron was making some footage
of me riding.
We stopped again at a little place
I had stopped before and I put my Aerostich on!
It was cold but still too warm for my North 49 suit. Said goodbye
to Ron and went down the road.
About an hour outside Dryden (Just like last year) snow started
falling and the road got covered in a hurry!
Notice the mud flap is gone? It broke off in Winnipeg! I guess
the sideways banging with the sidecar was too hard on the frozen
plastic! I don’t know but I found it dangling! So just took
it off and tossed it! I kept on going and just like the day before
just stopped for fuel and kept on motoring.
Except to take few pictures of Frosty
in the snow!
By the time I reached Thunder Bay it was snowing heavy wet snow
and could hardly see a damn thing because the roads are really
messy and the rigs driving by were giving me a hell of a dirty
shower. I had to stop many times to wipe some snow on my shield.
I learned last year not to rub the visor when it is dry!
By the time I reached TB it was about 4:00 and was thinking of
stopping there! But I was still pretty energetic and wanted to
make it to Nipigon or further. That was not a good idea! About
10 minutes out of TB the wind picked up and the big freaking flakes
which were as heavy and wet as diapers were falling with a vengeance.
At one point I had to slow down to about 80. That is all I could
muster because I could not see enough.
I would move over when I could to let the traffic go by!
Now the following is not
really stuff you want the kids to read about!
About half an hour out of TB there
is a truck behind me! You’ve heard me praise them and you
know how much I love them trucks and truckers. Been one and loved
it. I know it, I understand it and I respect it. But this one
would tailgate me when I could not move over. At one point he
must be 10 feet behind me and I have nowhere to go! I slowed down
to about 20-30 km/h and he would not pass me. He could but would
not! Meanwhile the traffic is passing him and I like we are stopped.
I accelerate, gain distance, then he catches up. Then out of nowhere
he puts all his lights on as he is tailgating me. I am not scared
but I am getting pretty freaking pissed.
So I decide tp lay along and just go with it. Just keeping ahead
of him enough!
45 minutes go like this and he will not pass me. At one point
I yelled in my helmet “Ok! I have had enough of you! You
Moth….. F……!
We are going up a hill, it is snowing, it is slippery and I am
pissed off! I slow down enough that I am sure we could have walked!
It is one lane and we are (For now) just him and I!
I pull over hoping he will just pass, but NOOOOO! He stops right
behind me on the shoulder with his hazards on! AHHHHH! Play time!
I stay on my bike and he gets out of his truck and walks toward
me. A guy in his 50’s big beer gut and I could smell him
even though it was windy!
He comes right by me and says! "What the F.. are you doing
on the road? You don’t F.. belong here asshole! Get off
the road or I will get you off the road!"
I turn and say "I am doing 90 click you moron what the hell
is your problem?"
"You!" he says!
I undo my helmet, take off my balaclava and get off my bike without
saying a word! I can’t he is won’t stop yacking! We
are both standing on the shoulder and I am just listening!
I am thinking he will run out of breath and just move on! Plus
I am too tired for this idiot!
Then he moves toward me as to grab my jacket. I have my helmet
in my right hand. Well! I don’t know what happened but somehow
my helmet made contact with his ugky face and he fell backward
in the ditch!
Now the funny thing is that he is flat on his back. His feet up
the little hill in the ditch and his head lower! Oh Yeah! And
there must be 3 feet of snow! Therefore Mr Fatass could not get
up. He is starting to roll and trying to get up but he is struggling
and he is not dressed for snow games! His big belly is flopping
all over the snow, his shirt is riding up his back and He just
can’t get up? At that very moment I am thinking! This would
not be the right time to leave a man in the snow alone! So I stay
while he is grunting, mumbling, swearing and I think…..
farting!! Yep!!!
After about 4-5 minutes of watching him Butterball do the frosty
bacon dance, he finally gets on his feet! Not out of the ditch
yet! But at least he on his feet! As he is just about to come
up and start yelling I tell him “Man! Do not say a fucking
word? Walk on and drive off! If you don’t you will not get
up the next time I hit you! You got it?
Look at my bike, look at my plate and make damn sure you memorize
it, because next time I will leave you in the fucking ditch to
freeze unconscious! Got it? As I an standing in front of him with
my helmet on the ground by now and my gloved fist against his
chest!
So! Mr Arnold brothers transport!
If you read this! I hope the crack of your butt thawed out in
your Big Volvo rig!
There you have it! My event of the
day.
Now I am going to have a shower and
hit the hay! I will aim for Sault St-Marie tomorrow. Not sure
though! It is snowing like crazy out right now!
Jan. 8th
Sault St Marie
The ride down here was pretty tough.
From Nipigon the ride was pretty cold. I got up at 7:30 Am and
left at 8:30 AM. When I got out it was -12C. Not bad! The sky
was blue, frosty covered with snow and my brain still on the pillow.
Man! It was hard to get up! I was absolutely welded to the mattress.
But Ron told me that some crappy stuff was coming up from the
south and also some crap from the US as well. Guess where I am?
Right in the middle!
I made it to Schreiber where I stopped last year after a scary
freaking day. I met the owner again! Last year she took a picture
of me and put it on her wall of travellers! Tis time I returned
the favour. She remembered me as soon as I walk in and so did
the waitress Sylvie who had served me. Had a good breakfast and
went on my way!
So off I go! As I get more south
toward Marathon, the road starts getting covered with snow pretty
much everywhere!. One thing is good though! I like riding the
hacking the snow. It is like a wide snowmobile! I am actually
riding the thing and sliding it all over! I try to keep it in
control when there is traffic around but take it from me “It
is a whole lot of fun!”
As I climb up the higher elevations the snow level increases a
lot and so is the fun!
Anyway! The scenes are like Christmas post cards and I just can’t
stop taking pictures.
As I reach White River (The home of Winnie the Phoo? Pooh? Phoo!
Whatever!) The wind has picked up and dammit it is not a tail
wind. It is either head wind or side wind.
It is tiring! My arms are hurting and shoulders are hooped. But
I am still enjoying the scenery. The great lakes can be tough
in summer and let me tell you this! Holy Crap! The winds live
there all year around.
At one pint I pulled over and went on a little Park road that
was closed because I had to take a break from the wind.
Here is a little proof! Last year
when I was going through Pancake Bay a side wind threw me in the
oncoming traffic lane in pitch dark! Thank God there was no one!
Oh yeah! That is because they had closed the TCH behind me in
Wawa.
Here is Wawa today!
The goose is looking at the sun and thinking Hmm! "I think
I am going to fly my feathery butt out of here!"
Where was I? oh yeah! Pancake Bay! The very spot where I was thrown
in the oncoming traffic lane is coming down the road! I remember
it like it was yesterday! It is dark, snowing like hell and I
can hardly see where the hell I am going. The road is gone and
I have to drag my feet to feel the road.
Ok! Today! The spot is coming and as I get though it the wind
is there waiting for me! (Not paranoid!) and this time blows me
on to the other lane too……………..
But……………………….this
time it is light out and I can see the large chromed grill of
a big whole Peterbilt. And the wind is pushing me toward it! Am
I scared? Shit! I am more than scared! I am so startled I do not
even have time to be scared. I was sure I was a goner! But the
guy behind the wheel was looking at me and just swerved enough
out of the way for me to clear him. It was easy for him to swerve
that quickly because the wind was pushing him as well. But still!
I am telling you! If he had not swerved I would have hit the driver’s
side trailer’s wheel.
Thank you Sir! If you are reading
this I want to say “Thanks” you were/are a scholar
and a gentleman and you just so happened that you saved my ass.
You more than made up for Mr Butterball yesterday.
Anyways! After that I slowed down
a bit, to about 70 km/h all the way to Sault St Marie.
Here are some shots of the scenery I went by.
So here goes another day down the
great lakes. Cold wind, lots of snow except in Soo. A close call
with a Pete and I learned to do power slides on snow at 60 mph.
all in all a damn good day!
Good night! I am hitting the sack
now! I am also now sick! I ordered a damn good pizza but I was
too tired to eat and what had to happen happened! Out it went!
Sorry my camera lens was kind of
steamed up.
Jan. 10th
Hi guys! I'm at Tim's in Toronto
and I am damn happy to be here!!! Been fighting side winds and
head winds for two days. I'm aching everywhere after fighting
the winds with the sidecar. At one point I was hurting so much
I was crying in my helmet and I had to pull over and for a few
minutes was really considering whether or not to call it quits--it
was THAT bad! But a good Tim Horton's coffee and soup changed
all that. The ride from Sault to TO was uneventful except I had
forgotten how traumatizing driving the 400 and 401 was. I was
so tired I had difficulty dealing with the traffic but thank God
Tim's directions to his house were spot on. I shit you not, at
one point as I saw TO come in to view I was thinking if I screw
up going to Tim's I'm pulling over at the first motel to hit the
sack and cry myself to sleep. I will take a snowstorm and a blizzard
any time over freaking side winds non-stop.
Tomorrow morning Tim here will guide
my sorry ass to BMW Toronto where Frosty will get looked after
and have a new TKC-80 put on the rear. Not that Frosty is not
running well because she is running mighty fine. But it's a long
way to Goose Bay and back and I just want to make sure all is
okay. BTW, the TKC in the rear is down to about 50% and I kid
you not if it wasn't for the studs it would have been gone a long
time ago. I was almost tempted to keep it on to Goose Bay and
back to Quebec but knowing I will hit snow and ice for a LONG
time on the TLH I would rather have full knobbys with new studs.
After this I will hit Joliette (my
home town) for a couple of days but stop in Napanee on my way
down to see Woodgrain for coffee and grub (at Tim Horton's most
likely). When I leave Joliette I will make it most likely a bit
past Quebec City then stop in Baie Comeau to stop at Los Tabarnacos
for the night and shoot shit with Rene (he's been so good to me).
Then I will attack the TLH. Yippee! Can't friggen wait.
Jan. 11th
Okee Dokee! I am at BMW Toronto right
now and they are working on Frosty! The rear TKC 80 would have
probably made it to Labrador and back but I did not want to take
a chance.
The chain and sprockets are hooped. I mean! Hooped like crazy.
I also detached the sidecar in order for the guys to work on her.
Talking about sidecar! I think I will leave the sidecar in Quebec
on my way back from Labrador and get it shipped back to Victoria.
I want to ride back on 2 wheels! We will see. The guys in here
are ordering me another set of chain and sprockets for me to pick
up when i get back. Plus Ron has a tire for me in Dryden.
They will change the oil too while
we are here, check the swing arm bearing and all the good stuff.
You should see this place it is unreal! 3 floors glass everywhere!
I am sitting in a lounge with huge leather seats and free internet
hook ups sitting in a chair nost people can't afford! As nice
as it is i am looking forward to be back on the road.
Frosty looks absolutely filthy like
I have never seen! I do not know what time I will leave here but
i will try to make some miles when i leave. But you know what?
She has not missed a beat! has not sputtered once and just keeps
going strong. has also not taken a bit oil.
She is working very hard and she is just hanging there! As far
as I am concerned I do not know of any 650 single that could do
what she is doing! I am so happy I did the trip on Frosty!
I spent the night at Tim's and he
and his wife Christina were great. we had a great time and I slept
like baby! Tim escorted me to the dealer today and made sure I
was ok.
I will let you know when i am back
on the road.
I am going for a snooze now! Toronto
is hard on me! I am a small town boy!
Jan. 13th
Ok! I am back in my hometown of Joliette,
QC and alive!
I got here last night for diner and it was good! I slept 11 hours
and I am still alive.
I got out of TO at 8 o’clock Friday and I am forever thankful
for the guys at BMW for taking so much care of me and Frosty.
They did an incredible job and BMW was 100% behind me. Tim and
Christina’s hospitality was awesome and Tim went also as
far as fighting TO traffic for another hour on Friday morning
to go home and get me his 15 teeth front sprocket because this
is something that was not stock at the dealer. Thanks Tim! You
da man!
By the time I left tropical TO it
was almost 7 degrees and I was sweating like the Mobster at a
tax man inquiry! The crack of my butt was like a river!
Then I fought traffic on 401 which is absolutely unreal. It is
like a bunch of killers on day parole driving on crack cocaine!
I saw women driving at 130 kmh putting make up on and holding
a cell between their shoulders and what looked like a head!
Went I got out of that zoo I phoned
Woodgrain (Dave) and we met in Napanee! I wanted to stop and we
have been trying to meet since we met in SK in 2004 and to be
honest with you I heard he was waiting for me with a sawed off
12 gauge shot gun on the side of 401.we stopped at Tim’s
where I had good coffee but the crappiest service and food I have
ever seen on this side of hell!
We went to his place and stayed up till 4. last time I stayed
up till 4 was in my mother’s womb.
We got up went for breakfast and I left for Joliette! I got here
for diner. It was nice to see my family and lots of snow.
I will leave on Tuesday morning and I will post pictures of winter
land again! It is cold here today and I love it!
Jan. 15th
It is 6:00 Am when I am getting up
to leave. Bruno and I leave at 7:15 and we drive together to Trois
Rivieres.
Funny how just after 2 days stopping i get out and i can feel
the boys squirming in my suit with the cold ! I guess they get
used to the warmth quicker than I. According to some i have big
ones but they still feel the cold air surrounding them.
I spend about 20 minutes shaking. Not because I am cold but because
i have lost the habit of breathing cold air and being out and
i guess i am adapting.
Anyway! in Trois Riviers is where
we have breakfast. I always love spending time with Bedo (Bruno’s
nickname) we have a really good laugh. On our way to Trois Rivieres
the roads were wet and really freaking messy! I got to breakfast
and I looked like a Thanks Giving ham!
I left at I am not sure but it seems like I got to Quebec city
in a hurry. But not before being pulled over AGAIN by the Surete
du Quebec police. Just like the others she was not too sure what
to do with me. She checked me out, we chatted for a bit and had
a good laugh and I went on my merry way.
The weather went anywhere from -5 to -12 at one pint alongside
the St Laurence river.
The winter scenery in Quebec St lawrence’s coast is something
to behold
At one point I am going down the
road and I start to smell something! It is smelling sweet. Really
freaking sweet! I am going “Oh Shit! I am losing coolant!”
I stop on the side of the road and nothing? Frosty’s engine
is dry! Must be something in the air! An hour later it is still
smelling like this! I stop again and I smell the exhaust to see
if I am burning coolant! Nope!
What the hell!? I keep going an then I stop to take a picture.
I open my tank bag and SMOKE is coming out! What the %$#&!
I get my cameras out! $3000 of cameras and hardware and the towel
that is sitting at the bottom of my tank bag is burning and smoking.
I throw it in the snow and look at my stuff to make sure nothing
is damaged.
The Oxford Wrap around heated grips
I am using to warm the bag so my video equipment works have heated
so much that it set the bag on fire.
My ear plugs case is melted to crap. My liner keeping the cameras
from direct contact with the grips is melted and and part of the
wire for the digital camera battery pack has melted as well.
I am cussing I am swearing and I
inventing some swears
Maudit tabarnac de soeur blindee de colisse de sincere d’appocalypse
de chrisse de sinciboire d’ariat d’cochonnerie d’esti
de collise de patente d’anglais de ciboire qu’est
ce qui pense de faire des crisse de bebelles de meme de sincreme
que j’aimerais rencontrer la casse de bain qui a fair ca
c’esti de kichinerie de sacramant la!!
In English?...................................................Fuck!
Anyway! I cut the grip that has melted
to a ptach of dry crap and toss it after cutting it off th harness.
Kept the one that looks half baked half ass good and wrap it in
what is left of a towel to make sure that it does not transfer
sun like flame throwing heat.
Shit man! I wanted heat! Afgter all it is a pair of hand grips
for motorcycles. Do not buy this? If this was to happen to your
hands you would not need to go for breakfast.
Just peel your now crispy hands off
the bars! SSSSSSSSSSSSHHH that hurts. Then put them in the snow
to make sure that they bubble nicely! Then pour Aunt jemima syrup
on it and enjoy! A quick necro modern breakfast filled with protein!
HmmmhMMM good!
Anyway after bringing down al the
saints with my swearing and kicking them back up (BTW I am now
officially going to hell with al I have said) because it piled
up with all the swears I said yesterday as I was leaving to visit
my cousin and saw that the side zippers on my Arctic suit had
split! I got hooked on something while I was in the garage and
screwed it up. It is now sewn shut and if it breaks! Well! I am
going to have to special order a book on swearing.
Anyway! I make it to the Tadoussac ferry which I have always loved
and it was great. The ice was running, the wind was blowing and
I was taking pictures while every one was stuck in their cars
looking at me like I was crazy! I might be but I am having fun!
How about you in your mini van with your diaper filling machines
and the wife that wil not even look at you anymore because she
wanted to stop for coffee but could not because you told “A
bit later Hunny” this bit later buddy will get you on the
couch with Fido!
As I am taking pictures a guy comes
to me and says in French “shit man! You speak French? Yep!
Then he goes on asking me where I am coming from and where I am
going? I am thinking “You are parked 3 micro inch from my
plate you nimrod! That is why you can’t see my plate!”
but I say Victoria BC and Goose Bay Labrador!
No Way! You shitting me aren’t you?
Nope! You cannot! This bike would not haul this side buggy (That
is what he said I swear) that long. Not big enough and you cannot
ride this long in winter! I know I ride sidebuggy and I know I
thing or two about them!
I am thinking “Really! Is that why you are driving a Sonata
with Adolphine Hitler next to you?” (She made Hitler look
happy!)
“You ride sidecars?” Yep! Been for years! And I can
tell you that your rig is not set up properly just looking at
it! I am thinking “Really!” Hmmmmmmm! Holdon Let me
take off my fucking helmet here I want to show you something you
moron!"
But I did not!
I just said “that is ok buddy!
It works for me and has for close to 7000 kms now” and I
walk away looking I have something urgent to do. Like jumping
overboard???
Anyway the crossing is breath taking
except that I never found out if Mr Sidebuggy knows how to swim.
I made it to Escoumains at the Pelchat Hotel complexe where I
am now revelling in the warmth. I contacted Rene in Baie Comeau
when I got here and he is waiting for me. It will be a short day
tomorrow! I will stop at his place and leave for Labrador the
day after.
I have talked to a couple of truckers in gas stations and they
told me that the TLH is looking good! Lots and lots of snow and
it is cold but the road is good!
I have to stop in Labrador City where
a newspaper wants to interview me and there is also a magazine
who wants to give me an interview in Goose Bay!
When I get to Goose Bay! If I can find a place where they rent
Sleds I will rent one and go snowmobiling a bit.. Why the heck
not???
At this rate I should be in Goose
Bay in about 3 days max!
That is if I do not burn myself to
freaking crisp! Has anyone thought that the base if this tank
bag is really! I mean really close to my noognorts??
Jan. 16th
Escoumains Quebec
Got up this morning at 6, walked
outside and the sky was full of stars and the air was crisp and
cold. I decided to to go back to bed as I would stop at Los Tabarnacos
(Rene Roy) and spend the day in Baie-Comeau. So there was no rush.
I went back to bed. Got up at 8 and got ready to go.
After packing and zipping up I took
off. The road in these parts is really nice. Scenery wise but
the surface is like going to a mine field that blew up. Heaves
and cracks and potholes and all sorts of good stuff that made
me say “Thanks I put an Ohlins in the back and upgraded
the front suspension and the sidecar shock.
At this time of the year everything is frozen and looks like a
post card
I absolutely love it.
As I made my way to Baie-Comeau I stopped many times. That is
why I got there at 12. there are so many pictures opportunities
that you just can’t past by them.
When I got to baie Comeau one of
Lost Tabarnacos’ friends Real Murray whom I have never met
stopped by with is daughter and chatted a bit. He said he had
phoned Rene to let him know I was here!
Small town folks! I LOVE IT! Then Rene got there. And as I was
about to bite into my Tim’s sandwich he said that his wife
Dianne had prepared lunch for me and René! I doggy bagged
the thing and we scooted to his house!
Where we had a hell of a good lunch.
Some beautiful stuffed chicken with beef in some sauce served
on a bed of rice! (Here you go ZZRon! Now it is a post because
we are talking about food!)that would bring a dead man back to
life it was so damn good!
This was like an orgasm for the taste buds!!
Don’t get me wrong? I love
Tim Horton’s sandwich and soup but Dianne’s food was
like trying to compare Julia Roberts to the Queen when she gets
up in the morning! No freaking match.
We hung around and shot shit for
the rest of the afternoon. While i was out i also met a new friend!
Blackie! He is 1 year old, 100 lbs and growing. Gave me a good
lick! I guess it was his way to say Good luck man!
Now here is the plan! I am leaving
tomorrow morning around 7:30 to attack 389 to ward Manicouagan
5 where I will turn east toward Labrador City! I am hoping to
make the 580 kms tomorrow. If I cannot I can stop at the Relais
Gabriel which is before that. They rent rooms and cabins for hunters
and fishermen. The lady there told me to knock on the door even
if I get there art midnight.
Then the following day the plane is to leave Labrador city to
Goose Bay! For Friday afternoon! On the way I have to stop at
Churchill Falls as well because there is a newspaper that wants
to talk to me. There is also one in Labrador City and one in Goose
Bay! If all goes well I will leave Goose Bay Saturday morning
or Sunday morning and be back in Baie Comeau for Sunday night
or Monday night.
Then head to Joliette where I will spend a few days and then head
back to Victoria.
As I write this I am thinking again of something that I thing
all day, every day! I would not be here today having so much fun
if it was not for 2 things. First! God`s grace to give me this
life, health and taste for life I have. And second! If it was
not for Melanie!
I love her of course more than I can say on this screen. But make
no mistake about it.
Going back to her is what makes the return home feasible. Because
I know what and whom I am going back to!
I am having so much out here and
I am blessed to be out here! But I am even luckier for her. It
is one thing to get carried away in this and it is another to
see past this.
Here’s to you Hunny! Here is
to many miles, many years and many smiles like this together!
Jan. 17th
UPDATE
I got up at Rene and I was ready
to go and attack the road to Goose Bay.
When we got up the weather was -24C.
I wanted cold, I asked for it and dammit I got it. Also while
I was sleeping Rene went to Tim’s and got us some coffee.
What a way to start a day!
Anyway! We left, stopped at Shell and fuelled up.
The first part of the road going to Manic 5 dam was rough. Damn
rough! But it turns out that it is not compared to what I will
hit later.
Anyways! I scooted along and made
it to the second fuel stop where I fuelled up and and arte the
best damn Hydro Quebec type of soup and chicken strips. In other
words?? Bla! But it was a $12.00 Bla! meal!
So Bla that I started drooling of boredom in my helmet afterward
trying to remember what it tasted like. But I could not! That
is because cardboard, I mean expensive cardboard leaves no taste..
This is obviously my breath freezing
coming out of my helmet. I have to say this. If you are going
to ride in cold, this helmet is the one to ride in. it makes you
feel like you are in summer.
I kept on going and made it to Relais
Gabriel for fuel. In that temperature which always stayed between
-15 and -25 all day, the Dakar’s MPG dropped down quite
a bit. I guess th hack does not help either. I averaged 45 MPG.
About half what it does normally? While I was lubing my chain
the guys working on the road snow clearing equipment stopped and
chatted. They work at the big shop right by Relais Gabriel and
asked me to stop by on my way back in a few days. They will put
the coffee on and the soup as well.
I absolutely love the way this road looks in winter. But remind
me to tell you something at the end.
I kept stopping for shots and I realized
that the 640 something clicks to Labrador city will be a damn
long one. It is a long day in summer. Now it is horrendously long.
I am not sure I will make it there. I am thinking I should have
stopped at the relais. I phone them yesterday and they said to
just knock on the door and I could get a room.
It is 270 clicks from the Relais Gabriel to Fermont and another
28 to Labrador city.
By the time I hit the mile marker
430 something it is dark. The wind is blowing like hell but at
least it is a tail wind. The thing with this is that it drops
some fresh snow on the ice road, the road becomes like a skating
rink, high pucker factor about 100 times.
Before I know it I am living Sault St Marie all over again but
this time X 10.
I am really scared many freaking times. At one point I took a
long sharp right turn and the rig decided to keep going. I could
not turn. The ice was so slick that the front tire just kept going.
I kept the throttle on as I realized there was not rig coming
toward me and that I was thankful for that. But I think I popped
a vein in my ass as held Frosty when she hit the snow bank on
the other side and got grip as I kept her from climbing up. Both
wheels were suddenly in the soft stuff and the hack’s wheel
on sheer ice. So it turned. I made the curve this way and eventually
wrestle my way backing my lane. It is just a freaking miracle
I did not crash. I stop on the side and clam down a bit. By this
time it is getting dark. There is no way if the road stays this
icy that I can make it like that!
I almost turned around. My back was hurting, my arms were throbbing
and my nerves were being tested again!
I took about 15 minutes and while I was stopped on the side of
the road I saw no one. Sorry to say this, but you hit the ditch
down there and if you are hurt and have no way to reach anyone
you will die of Hypothermia in a hell of a hurry!
This is when I realized that this
is a lot more dangerous than the great likes in a snow storm.
What the hell am I going to do? I have another 800 clicks to Goose
Bay and I have to do it all over again! I know they are forecasting
snow in these parts and no accumulation but the weather forecasting
system about Labrador is about as reliable as a Crack head you
just sent to make your night bank deposit.
Anyway! I decide to move, but before I do I put the few studs
I have left on my front tire.
Now I do not mind cold but standing by the side of the road with
the wind blowing on your bare fingers while you are holding a
cold drill and cold tungsten studs is something that gets you
cold in a hurry! Even I!
After about 15 minutes of this I
am done, but by now my fingers are hurting. I know I cannot take
off like this and that my heated grips will not work fast enough.
So I open my hack take a propane container out and start my little
heater. It takes me all I have to strike the match to light it
up, but it does the trick in about 1 minute!
Now I know why I brought that damn hack and I am happy. It is
the second time in half an hour it saves my life. But the heater
made me appreciate it more.
I take off again and I keep on going.
I hope I will make it to Fermont for gas. Then I think! “Damn!
I got an extra 8 gallons!” So I stop worrying.
The last 3 hours to Fermont/ Labrador City are really making me
push my limits in a way that I am not sure about anymore.
At one point in the last 90 clicks before Fermont I saw 3 rigs
in the ditch. There is so much snow everywhere I am thinking “Shit
this stuff must be here till August!”
A few times I came across some rigs and even though they slowed
down when they saw me the snow blinded me as they passed! This
is fine if the road is straight, but believe me it is not! The
last sign I saw said narrow road for 115 kms Caution.
I made it to Fermont where I put some juice in Frosty and mozie
on to Labrador City for another 28 kms.
When I got there all i could was sleep! I was absolutely bagged.
The combination of a very rough road, poor visibility, narrow
road and the thought that if I got off in the ditch no one would
find me till spring make for an exhausting ride.
January 18, 2008 - Friday morning
645 kms to here from Baie- Comeau
Labrador city
It is about -14 outside and I am
ready to go! I could not take a picture of the Labrador sign!
Just kidding!
I actually got a couple of nice
guys from the SQ who knew I was in town and when they saw me at
the sign as they were about to turn around they asked me if they
could take a picture of me.
Of course I did and I also took
one of them. Nice guys. We chatted a bit on the side of the road,
they wished me good luck and I went on to Tim’s in Labrador
city’s city limits, where I wanted to phone peter and Heather
from the North 53 Magazine for the interview. They showed up about
5 minutes after I phoned. Others join in and we had a local get
together. It was great! These folks were really excited to see
me. They say they have never seen or heard of anyone coming through
in winter on a motorcycle. Cool! As we are sitting down mike Power
from CBC radio showed up and asked me if I could give him one
as well! This is the least I can do! I finished with Peter and
Heather.
And I went on to meet Mike at CBC.
I spent about 45 minutes with Mike
in the studio and we went outside to make the interview with sounds
of the bike and all! A whole bunch of people gathered as we were
doing this! That was very humbling! Man! A crazy French Canadian
shows up in winter and they want to meet him. Some also remembered
reading about me in their paper last year when I came through
in NL
After that, I had to find a way to
fix my windscreen that I had taken off because the road had shaken
a couple of bolts off Frosty and I was just about to lose it about
90 clicks away from Fermont, at night in the crappiest part of
the day! Murphy’s freaking law!
If I ever meet this Murphy I am going to kick in so hard in the
ass he will have to loosen up his tie to fart.
After farting around and cussing like a logger in the cold freezing
my fingers off fiddling around with Tabarnac de colisse de petite
bolts la. Could they make them smaller for F&^%#$ sake? Sincreme
de sacraman de soufleux de trombone de frère bande de crises
de soeur blindee de ciboire my fingers were hurting and I kept
dropping the littlest little rubber washer about 100 tabarnac
de fois in the colisse de snow. St- ciboire it was time I finhed
otherwise calver I would have garocher le criss de windshield
in the face of the next one who asked me if I was crazy to ride
in this.
Souffleux de trombone de mule ensoleillee de crises!
Ok where was I? Finally after I picked
up the satellite phone at the hotel
I left Labrador city at 11:45 Am.
DAMN! I have another 560 kms to Goose bay! I better get ready
to ride in the dark.
As I leave LC the wind picks uo like hell and the temp drops a
notch or 2 to about -14 as I ride. It is great though! They say
the road from LC to Churchill Falls is smooth and wide biut the
shit hits the fan past Churchill Falls! We will see!!!
Within 50 clicks winter meets me down the road! As if it was not
there already!
Onmy way north as I am coming down the road a pick up truck is
waving me to stop. We meet and I turn around to park in front
of them as they ask me. Sure enough 2 minutes later a rig goes
by.
The guys onboard are freaking out at the sight of me! We chat
and laugh a hell of a lot for about 20 minutes and they warn me
about many fresh caribou tracks.
I do no take their advice lightly
because I know this is their stomping grounds and if they are
worried? SO should I Esti!!
I saw some pretty cool scenery that
reminded me of where I am! IN THE MIDDLE OF NOWHERE!!!
Where else can you ride for an hour two and not see a soul?? It
is sobering! This is something I have not felt before! When I
was on my trip last year and that they closed the TCH on me, I
knew I was alone but I also knew there always was some people
nearby! Not here! Not a soul! Something happens to you here, you
can kiss your sorry frozen ass good bye!
Imade my way to Churchill and by about 4 O’clock I had eaten
a nice pizza at the Churchill falls hotel and had my photo taken
by a dozen of people from the Irving in town to the hotel where
the restaurant was! One lady who worked at the Grocery store came
running out as I left and told me “You know? Every one thinks
you are crazy! And as she said that a guy coming out of his truck
said “This is our way to say we are envious! You choose
to do it when so many don’t” Good luck man!
As I come out of Churchill Falls it is dark, the snow is starting
to fall heavily and I see this sign.
Goose
Bay 285 kms!!! Damn! It is dark; they are forecasting 5 cms of
snow with strong winds and down to about -20 with the wind chill
factor! What the heck am I doing to myself? Very smart! Dark,
alone on the remotest Highway in Canada, I can hardly see,, there
are as many caribous on the road as there are men in the news
stands when the Sports Illustrated Swimsuit issue comes out, I
am on bike when and to top it off, this road is the pits in summer
on a bike! So why am I here again??? I use to say I do things
like this because one of my 2 brain cells is having a fight with
the other. I am not even sure I have 2 anymore! I am sure most
of the time if you could open up my skull/ brain all you would
hear is the deafening sound of the empty vacuum like space.
Anyway! About an hour after Churchill falls (100 KMS) I stopped
to rethink all this. I can hardly see, the road is so rough my
bike has to be suffering somehow! (Will have a lot of bolts to
retorque) and for the third time in 2 days I am contemplating
the idea of calling it quit.
There is risk! And there is this!
After what seem 10 minute I keep going, thinking, “Paul!
You made it this far! He will take you there! Just do not do anything
stupid and take your time! You get to GB when you get to GB!”
About 45 minutes after this I come
across my first mistake! You know that pizza?? Well! It wants
to go play in the snow! Yep! The wind is blowing, the cold is
way down the scale you could freeze the balls of a brass monkey
and I have to stop like-------------------------------------------------------
NOW???
Yep! What was my mistake? Oh yes!
Taking my coat and gloves off! Dropping my pants in th freezing
snowing wind and answering the big # 2 call of nature! By the
time I am done leaving something for the caribous and that I climb
out of the snow bank (Cleaning station?) my fingers, ass, nuts
and all other exposed parts of my lower body are frozen. Now I
have to suit up again with my skin covered with snow that will
cause moisture and will make me cold in my suit! Within 5 minutes
my lower body is hurting with cold and my fingers are too!
Rene gave me a piece of paper mill tarp to line the ground and
it is pretty heavy duty and wind proof! The first pull over I
see is about 10 minutes later. I get off the bike, open the hack,
put the heater together, light it up and wrap myself in the tarp
as I am standing up with the heater inside at the bottom! I am
sure I look like a large beige Christmas tree. But the heat from
the heater stays under and I warm up in about 10 minutes!
I get back on and again thank the hack for saving my hide again!
About 10 kms passed the halfway mark
I come across my first encounter with the caribous!i am coming
down at about 60 klicks when Boom! Here they are right in front
of me. Windy, snowy, slippery and with a hack1 YOU DO THE MATH!!!
I slowed down by about 2 inches an hour and managed to swing around
most of them except one which managed to hit my left panniers!
‘Shit man! That was close! I am stopped and thinking HMMMMM!
I just passed half way! Can’t stop now! I keep on going!
About 75 clicks from GB I come across my second encounter, but
this time I am more prepared! I noticed a lot of tracks on the
road for the last hour and a half! I quickly realize that when
there are tracks there are Fuzz balls! Big freaking fuzz balls!
With antlers that could hang me like underwear on a clothe line.
This time I am going slower and I ride away from the pack of about
10 of these magnificent creatures!
At one point there are about 5 running with me and THEY WILL NOT
GET OFF THE ROAD! They are just running to where I am going. I
try to grab my camera and the wind reminds me very quickly this
is not a good idea! Let’s just say that you would have known
what my last actions were when you would have found me in the
spring.
He died snapping a shot of a large caribou’s ass!
Anyway off in the ditch they go and
I keep going! 20 minutes later my third encounter. Except this
time they came out of the ditch. I did not hit one full one but
let’s just say the male running in front of me was so close
that as he ran. He knocked off my spare jerry can of gas on the
hack and also knocked my auxiliary light out of adjustment and
knocked off the protector lid! He also kept running in front of
me till I stopped!
I turned around and found the broken strap right besides the jerry
can and the light cover.
Talk about close encounter of the
furry kind! 45 minutes later I am entering GB. I stop at the Irving
gas station to fuel where a bunch of kids cheer me on! Cool! I
also notice that my rear parkinglight on my hack is not working.
The reason is that the road (Bad freaking bumpy, potholey like
hell road) shook the bolt holding my hack fender on the frame
and it rubbed in the tire. No arm done to the fender or the tire
but it rubbed the wire off the light socket! I will fix that tomorrow
morning!
Now I am a the north hotel. I am
7546 kms away from home and they are forecasting 60 km/h winds
tomorrow with accumulations of 5 cm of snow and temperatures of
-38 in the afternoon with the wind chill! So guess what! I a hurting,
I am exhausted and I have tears in my eyes that will just not
stop! I am so burnt out! The last 2 days and 1146 kms have been
by very far the hardest ride I have ever been on and definitely
the scariest one as well in so many ways! So tomorrow I am staying
here! For another day! I just can’t take off right away!
After that I am heading back to Victoria!!
Thinking about the ride here from Baie comeau maybe it was not
the pizza! Maybe! Just maybe! I finally did something that made
me shit my pants!
Good night!
Jan. 18th
Ok! I am in Churchill Falls and the
hotel let use their PC for an update.
They are forecasting winds to 50 kph and 4-5 cm of snow and -18
tonight. tomorrow the same with more wind and colder and down
to -38 with the wind chill factor.
I am heading out to Goose bay tonight! 285 clicks between here
and there! I am having a good time but man are the roads rough.
fixed the screen today at a Ski Doo Place.
had an interview with North 53 Magazine of Labrador this morning
and also one with CBC radio right after.
I will post all the pics tomorrow
or tonight if I have internet in GB. if I make it there tonight
I will leave there tomorrow and com back.
I was told that a lot of caribous
were spotted on the road so I will have to be careful.
Jan. 19th
It is almost 10 here and the sun
is shining! I am fighting the urge to leave, but I will not! I
am going to take the day to take care of Frosty!
She is been go to me.Through really bad roads, through frost,
ice, rain, snow, sleeth and conditions that would have made most
quit, she has been there...never complaining.
I know without a fact that without
my sturdy steed I could not have made it. My God she never even
blew a fuse! She lost a couple of parts and none that were essential
really. Compared to the ones which loss,would have been catastrophic.
I am going to go out right now and baby her. Then i will go to
Tim's I could say that I could not have chosen a better ride but
i will not!!
I will scream it! No!!!! There could not have been a better one
to have pulled what she did! For Go'ds sake! The hack and gear
were 2/3 of her weight! And not a problem.
I know for a fact that the Ural wouldn't even have gotten out
of BC. looking back?? I am gald my safety and my ride were in
Frosty's hand.
Oh and by the way! To those who said
out loud that she could not make it?
Mangez donc tous de la marde gang
de casse (casque) de bain!
Casse de bainis an expression that defines the ultimate in Dufus
type of people! The ones that make "Duh" , moronic and
stupid look and sound like compliments!
Jan. 20th
I am in Churchill falls right now
and I just stopped shaking! I will write about it tonight, if
i can! But for now all i can say is this!
For the first time in my life! Mr Cold has brought tears to my
eyes this morning! That is all i will say! the last 300 kms were
worse and harder on me than the whole trip down here + the whole
trip last year together.
I knew i was going to hurt when i left Goose bay at -38.
Here is the last picture my camera was able to take.
I could not! I repeat I could not do this again! This shit is
made to be done with a support vehicle behind you! The terrain,
the cold and the isolation are unforgiving. never more than this
morning did i realize this!
Talk to you tonight IF I CAN!
7:02PM
I made it to Labrador city! Got here
at 7:00 Local.
too bagged for posting. They are forecasting -52 tomorrow with
the wind chill. i am still going to attempt to make it to Baie
Comeau! At least I have a few places to stay at and stop at if
needed.
PS Los Tabarnacos! Can you turn the
oven on for me? when you see me get in tomorrow night (Hopefully)
just peel me off the bike and slide me in the oven for 20 minutes
and then turn me over.
Jan. 20th
Goose bay, Labrador
-38 and with Wind chill it is -48
“Paul! Habille-toi? Tu vas
prendre ton coup de mort!” « Moman! J'hais avoir chaud"
»
“Paul Get dressed? You will die out there like this! “But
Mom! I hate being hot!”
Out I would go skiing with dad in my jeans and jeans jacket with
my back showing, while Bruno and dad are dressed like Eskimos.
I would take major falls and spills, scrape the snow out of my
T-shirt and keep going. This was nuts. My dad was worried but
at the same time knew he could not make me do what I did not want
to do! Time has passed but many things haven’t changed
This is the scene playing out in
my head and the words ringing in my ears as I get outside this
morning.
It is 7:00 when I get up. I am glad
I stayed in Goose yesterday. The ride to here was scary to say
the least.
As I get out the wind and cold hit me like a freaking wall. Frosty
is sitting there all alone, frozen solid and I feel bad for her.
She had to spend the night out, and she is the one doing all the
work! Is it actually possible to feel for a mechanical thing what
I am feeling? It has to be! If she bails out on me, this could
very well mean my end depending how she decides to quit. The scenarios
are endless and the outcome of every single one of them really
spooks me. I have always been proud to say I am not afraid of
being alone. But THIS gives a new meaning to the word isolation.
I decide to change the tape playing in my head because I know
what it can do to one person. Doubts set in, fears sows fear and
before you know it you make a mistake that is last. Out here IT
CANNOT AND WILL NOT HAPPEN!
I walk to Frosty and ask her to wake
up. I sweep the snow off her and break the ice of the seat. I
am still convinced she can hear me. I caress her and ask to come
to life for me. One more time again! As I hit the start button,
she turns but will not fire. She hesitates a few times, probably
because she has low grade in her ( I am sorry Frosty that is all
I could find) and it does not light up the way it does normally.
After a few tries she comes to life without a funny sound or anything.
She is purring quietly in the cold Labrador morning air and I
can hear her wake up just like I.
I go inside and start to load her up as she warms up. This takes
about 15-20 minutes.
It is a ritual I have learned from
last year!
I go in, suit up real good and take off! I am on my way to Tim’s.
As I make my way there I know it is freaking cold cause I can
hear the squeaking of the snow under my tires. I make it to Tim’s
and as I get off, I realize within one minute that even with my
gloves I can feel the cold. I will not go in and turn Frosty off,
nor will I leave her running all alone outside while I am sipping
on some decaf! I take a picture of her proudly idling inform of
the most north easterly Tim’s in Canada and I take off.
Ice and nothing but ice everywhere!
As I climb the first hills coming out of Goose bay I look at my
thermometer on my tank bag and it reads -43. This will be the
last time it will show something. I guess one year plus this cold
is all the battery could take.
Within half an hour I am starting to worry. The cold is intense
and so far I am ok except for my feet that I keep moving. But
I am worried about Frosty and what can go wrong. I do not want
to be stranded around these parts any more than the Pope wants
to be caught in whore house!
I quickly realize I will have to stop every 15 minutes in order
to do my cold bacon dance and move my feet! After doing this a
couple of times I also know I am in deep shit in so many other
ways it is not even funny!
First I have to take a leak! My suit is frozen solid on me and
it is hard to undo the zipper. I will not take the chance and
than break it. So I lift my coat, undo my zip from the bottom
and “Holy crap! Where is it?” oh! There it is! Then
quickly reverse the process. By now, my fingers a frozen! I put
my gloves on but they are too cold and I cannot do what I normally
do which is to tuck my gloves under my sleeve.
I take off one glove and put it over the muffler tip so the exhaust
goes in and warm it up!
Hmm! That works! Cool! now I get
back on frosty and within 5 minutes I have to stop.
As good as this helmet is it has one flaw. The mask sits well
over my mouth but because some air makes it in in an otherwise
sealed environment that is warmer than outside, a thin layer of
crystals is starting to build up! I have to scrape it with my
gloves every 2-3 minutes. Otherwise I cannot see anymore. I try
to compensate by riding with my visor cracked open but within
30 seconds my exposed skin is stinging like hell! Stinging means
frost bite. No good!
I develop another technique. I have some towels in my hack. I
put one in my tank bag. When I stop to wiggle my feet for a few
minutes I wrap the towel around the exhaust canister. After a
couple of minutes I take towel, bunch it up and stuff inside my
helmet (With my head in) and as I stuff it in I rub it on the
inside of the shield and close it. The layer of ice melts. I wipe
it dry and move on!
There is something special about the fresh smell of exhaust in
your helmet, every half hour in the morning! Now the next time
I stop my heart almost stops. My feet need wiggling, I can’t
see and there is a puddle of oil under Frosty!
Remember my engine case breather return that freezes and sends
the back pressure out through a vent problem? Well! I had come
up with a solution which is to run an extra line of vent from
the engine to under the seat and terminate it with a small K&N
filter.
The idea works but with the mild weather we had I had forgotten
to plug it in. Now what! I can take a picture with my gloves on
but I cannot work small tools.
I need my fingers to unscrew small
screws and to work my tools.
I am literally dancing on the road as I try to figure what is
next! I have no choice!
I whip the tool kit out and state while I am leaving frosty running.
As I work my way in my fingers get frozen. I walk back and heat
them up with the muffler. Meanwhile I am dancing to make sure
my feet are ok. The rest of my body is fine but the anxiety is
starting to get the best of me. I drop everything and I walk away
thinking things I really cannot print. One of them is “Where
is the F%$#& help button?” then I catch myself and calm
down. After about a 5 minute walk I go back to Frosty! She is
spewing oil and needs me to connect that other line.
I get all the right tools out and
one step at the time eventually disconnects the stock line and
reconnects the custom one. Normally at home this takes about 1
minute the way I got it designed. But in these conditions it takes
me about half an hour.
I cannot help but think how horrible it would be to be stranded
in here! I have been on the road for 2 hours by now and have not
seen a soul.
I repack my tools, reheat my hands, warm up my feet and take off!
There is 285 kms between Goose Bay and Churchill falls! I am trembling
because I have on what I have always worn. 1 t-shirt, my long
sleeve military spec under garment and my jacket. Down I have
one pair of sock and my long fleece underwear and my pants.
I have more stuff but I have nowhere to stop to put some more
on and if I try on the side of the road I will not be able to
warm up again and then only go downhill from there. Churchill
Falls is still about 130 Kms away! At 70 km/h I will be there
in 2 hours at least!
The tripmeter is showing 155 kms when the reserve light comes
on! I have been making less than half the 88 MPG I normally have
on average!
Maudit colisse de tabarnac de niaiserie de cochonnerie de colisse!
Why don’t you give me a F%^$# break for a bit. I am not
saying this to Frosty! I am just whining!
I pull over and untie the 2 gallons
Jerry can on the side of the hack and I come to turn Frosty off
but the key will not turn. It is frozen in the lock!
AAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHH!Tabarnac the AARRGGHHHHH!
I drop the can and walk away! “Calm
down Paul! You will make stupid mistakes if you keep this up!
It is all ok so far! Think! Think!” my spare key is buried
in my luggage! And even if it was in my wallet I would not take
my gloves off unless I absolutely have to.
Ding! Ding! An idea comes to mind. I take off the tank bag and
as I lift up my jacket and reach for my zipper I say “Forgive
me Frosty” as I am about to pee on her!
This will thaw out the lock! But I suddenly remember something.
The guys at BMW Toronto gave me a little spray bottle of WURTH
de-icer.
I reach in the left pannier and there it is! I spray it on and
TaaDahhhh! Out comes the key! I was so happy I did not have to
pee on Frosty! I refuel and take off again! About 10 minutes later
my face is hurting!
Here is why! I have freaking popsicle
growing out of my face! And they are stuck on my helmet liner
as well! Every time I frown or something I pull my brows, plus
the shield is freezing inside still and so is my exposed skin.
How far to Churchill Falls? Still not t soul in sight!
I take this picture
And then of my face and the camera
dies! The battery is fully charged from this morning and it is
gone already! “Battery exhausted” reads the display!
Battery exhausted? What the F%$&# “what do you think
my F%$# meter is saying you F%$@!& piece of shit! Let me show
you exhausted when I shove you up some dead caribou’s ass
so you warm up. I am out here trying to have fun and fighting
this with al I have and you give up on me because of the little
bit of fu…. Cold you feel from within the tank bag you ugly
stinking piece of tabarnac de shit! $1500.00 for you?
“Calm down Paul! Calm Down! I am sure the animals who are
hearing me scream from within my helmet are wondering! 2 caribous
on the side of the road are having the following F5^&%$ conversation
Hey Joe! Isn’t that guy normally
carrying a gun?
Yeah!
Why is he talking to himself and his camera?
Don’t know! Maybe it is a new gun!
I don’t know but if it is I do not think we are his target!
Yeah! You’re right! I think he sounds like he is his own
target!
Something cool happened this time
as I was talking to my camera. I realized that my temperature
was going up and I felt warm! HMMMMM! I knew that!
So for the next 100 something kms I was dancing and screaming
on my bike and in my helmet.
I made it to Churchill falls where I fuelled up and went to the
restaurant at the Hotel.
From there I could see Churchill Falls pretty much closed on this
Sunday. I wolfed down a bowl of turkey soup and a large French
Fries with Gravy! I need the freaking protein!
I stopped quivering after about half an hour and I went down and
got another pair of socks and a long sleeve sweater. Put my new
life saving layers on and went outside. Damn! It cooled down a
few degrees I am sure since I came in as the sun is slowly making
his way into the Pacific.
I take off from Churchill Falls and
as I ride past the Ultramar for the 4th time in 3 days the guys’
wave at me. I wave back and go back on 500 for the last 240 kms
to Labrador City!
By now it has to be at least -45, -48. At least that is what the
locals tell me in Churchill Falls. But I am now warmer and refreshed.
While I was having a quick light lunch,(Yeah! Yeah!) I reminded
myself to not let the isolation and the thought of what if get
the best of me.
Even though the thoughts were there
I quickly replaced them with how lucky I am to be able to see
this from my helmet’s point of view
Churchill River drained and sleeping
Sunsets that can only be seen and felt here at this time of the
year. The magnitude of the TLH mixed with the isolation make for
an experience that can only be lived. No words or explanation
could ever come close to produce or duplicate what I felt as I
was watching the sun go down on my cold world that night! I was
reminded of Ian and Dad and how much they would cheer me for me
if they were here to witness this.
When I stopped to take a picture
of that one, which was to be the last one after my camera warmed
up in Churchill, I sat on the snow bank and took a deep breath
and started to cry! Yep!
There was something about the ice shining on the road, the sun
disappearing slowly, the cold whipping my face so hard it hurt
and the thought that all this could be taken away from me in an
instant that soothed me. And suddenly? Calm came!
I am sure we all can remember a time when the rawness of a single
moment carved a deep mark in us! A mark that leaves a scar! A
good scar! A scar that reminds us how precious life is and how
fragile it is at the same time. And that it is in this conflict
of logic that we spend our lives deciding what we WILL do and
WILL not do!
I looked up and I could feel my tears freeze on the layer of ice
that had already welded my beard to my baklava as they fell down
and I smiled!
From that mile marker on the TLH till I hit Labrador City I was
in the moment and not it on top of me. I could still feel the
cold but now I was lucky to be able to feel it. I still had to
stop to move my feet but now I was lucky to be able to walk and
to just that!
My back was killing me because the roughness of this road had
beaten to a pulp, but I was happy to feel it and thinking that
I would not have any trouble finding someone who is wheelchair
bound who would give their life to feel what I was at that very
moment.
Then it dawned on me! THIS is why
I am out here! I have always answered “Why not?” when
asked why I do this! This answer also included “To feel”.
As simple as that! To feel! As I rode I felt Ian and dad were
riding right beside me!
And somehow I also felt like I felt last year when I said I felt
“You” on the pillion seat.
Since this morning this 535 kms from Goose Bay to Labrador city
was a challenge but at that moment it was more than that! It was
something I had and wanted to enjoy because no matter how hard
it would be, I will never go on ride like this again!
Amazing what the right perspective can do to one’s heart!
